Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
